G1xOn Hack on how to make footswitch for looper and home button

DIY footswitch home and looper button

An inexpensive and simple way of fixing the home and looper switch button where you won't have to bend down and press to switch but instead you can improvise and use your foot. Here are the things that you need:

Adhesive Felt Pads 

Cutter

Scissors

Pen

Ruler

Self-healing cutting mat

Cardboard or thick paper

First, I did an outline on a piece of paper what shape and size to use. So I did trial and error method to know which one will fit and what to use. So I did few trials and it did work. However, there was a bit of challenges encountered. One was it got stuck so I had to put paper underneath so it won't stick. But it doesn't look nice. It was raised and really not pleasing if you look at it. Although it works, I had to improvised again. So this time, I just doubled the felt pad. Stuck it together and used the cutter to cut it into shapes. Two circles and two triangles. Just small ones that will fit the buttons. The two circles were used to the Looper/Rhythm button and Home button. Then the triangles were use on the up and down buttons to switch between banks from A through J. It's looking better than the previous and works well. So happy with this improvisation to my effects pedal.

How to lower the action of your acoustic guitar

Lower the action of dreadnought guitar

Things you needed:
Pencil
Pentel Pen or Marker
Ruler
Sandpaper
File
Clean cloth or paper towel
Brush


The first thing you need to do is either you remove the strings if you intend to clean your guitar and put on a new set of strings or if you just put new strings on and forgot to adjust the height of your strings, all you need to do is loosen the strings as much as you can then carefully remove the bridge saddle.

Once the saddle is removed, use the ruler to mark it as to how much you're going to sand it down. Put a line using the pencil as your guide as to how far you're going to sand it down. Then use the marker or Pentel Pen to mark the bottom of the saddle to know if you're sanding it evenly. And when you're doing it, do it gently and keep on checking how far you're going. Then use a file to smoothen the area.

Once you're happy or near your target line as to how much centimetre you want to remove, brush the area off or wipe with a clean cloth and put it back. Then check if you're happy with the height of your strings. Note that it is not advisable to sand it down too far and make the strings too low because it will be prone to buzzing and you wont be able to reverse it. So it's better to just sand it down little by little. Also the string pull is great when it's a bit high. So, limit it to 1 cm or less when you lower the action of your guitar.

Put saddle back and try to tune it and play the guitar. Even though you lowered it a centimetre or less, you will still feel the difference. Hope this helps.

How to clean and change the strings of you dreadnought acoustic guitar

D'Addario EZ890 super light 9/45 bronze review and demo

It's been three years already after I bought this Fender DG60CE electro-acoustic guitar and I haven't changed a single string yet. So, I thought it's time to do it. I bought a super light set of D'Addario bronze acoustic strings. It's mainly because I'm so use to light strings and low action electric guitar. Let's see if this will do the trick.

I also ordered online tools as well as guitar maintenance kit. Some of you might have read my previous post on cleaning the guitar fretboard using Jim Dunlop 02 deep conditioner and I've used  improvised improvised fret guard protector out of an old ID/debit card. But now, I have the proper fret guard that I bought online. It's cheap but works fine. Also I bought a string cutter/winder, no brand, cheap gear. It came with the fret guard and brush, etc. I also bought a soundhole plug/cover or nowadays called "screeching halt." Unfortunately, it didn't fit well. I tried to force it because it's made of rubber and it did fit in the end but I decided not to use it because the main purpose why I bought it is to lessen the sound of my dreadnought so I can record or use my guitar in the night but it didn't work as I wanted it to be. Plus it's so hard to put in and remove.

Hope you find this review/demo on how to change strings, clean the fretboard as well as review of products i.e. D'Addario EZ890 bronze super light acoustic strings, imitation of D'Addario Planet Waves string cutter/winder, Jim Dunlop 02 deep conditioner rosewood fretboard, No brand soundhole cover/plug "screeching halt," and other maintenance kit tools and cloths (microfibre).

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Mosky DTC 4-in-1 plus Zoom G1xOn combined

4-in-1 Analog plus Multi-effects Processor

I have connected my Zoom G1xOn through Loop effects of Mosky Audio DTC 4-in-1 pedal and I was amazed by the result. It was fun using them both. But I think if I compare and do a battle of the two, I would choose Zoom G1xOn as the winner. Right, that's going to be another topic. For now, let me share to you my experiment and experience with these two pedals.

So, I wanted the Mosky DTC 4-in-1 to be my main pedal and then hooked in the loop effects would be my additional functionality i.e. tuner, reverse effects, reverb, etc. So the first thing that I tried was the tuner and it worked. I was really pleased with it. Then, I tried the reverb, so I can have a clean channel with reverb as well as crunch with reverb and again it worked. However, when I did the bypass mode, I thought it won't affect the tone of the pedal but it did. Maybe because of the loop or maybe because it's a multieffects processor and being digital.

Next was the reverse effects, and as expected it worked the way I want it to be. And the last thing that I enjoyed the most was the looper. I don't have to switch back to home and change effects from clean to crunch to lead because my Mosky 4-in-1 does the trick on that one.